DAY 5: CHATEAU GUIBERT - VELLUIRE: 56km
WEDNESDAY 3 JUNE



What a fantastic view - and another sunny day

Although we were up at 6.15am we spent too long packing up the tent and admiring the view and we didn't get going until 9am. Rob pushed the tandem and trailer back up the rough track which I struggled to carry the heavy panniers which we then attached when we got to the top as it was too steep to push the bike with them on. Luckily I just remembered in time that our recently filled bidons were still in the toilet block so I ran (I was feeling very fit) all the way back down the track to get them.

We stopped for breakfast at Mareuil sur Lay

I was expecting Mareuil sur Lay to be a pretty little town but what their website hadn't mentioned was the fact that there was a very busy main road going through it. The only bar was on the main road and Rob went to order the drinks while I went over the road to buy the (enormous) croissants. This routine worked well for our breakfast stops. As we sat and ate our breakfast we watched the lorries and heavy traffic thunder past and were glad that we didn't have far to go on this road.

It was a relief to turn off onto the peaceful lanes




We passed fields of baby sunflowers and maize with far reaching views




and through some not-so-pretty villages




We enjoyed a walk around Lucon




and found a bar in a quiet square




On leaving Lucon we followed a stunning canal

The canal took us on to a D road that we followed through some pretty villages. Unfortunately we were riding straight into a strong headwind. We battled with this for the rest of the morning.

A busier road took to Chaille le Marais

Chaille le Marais looked really nice on the website and we hoped that we would find a bar for lunch by the water's edge but when we got there there weren't any bars or restaurants by the water (or anywhere in the village for that matter) and worse still the bakery was shut and so was the only shop in the village. It was all a big disappointment but we had to eat as it was 1pm and we were worried if we waited until the next village we would end up eating too late and spoil our evening meal.

We sat in the church square and ate a bizarre picnic of all the scraps of left-over food we could find in our pannier

The afternoon's ride was going to be stunning

It was such a glorious day to be in the Marais Poitevin

We were really enjoying the ride




The reflections were amazing




We couldn't stop taking photos




The white painted houses marked our progress south

When planning the previous year's trip I had stumbled upon the Auberge de la Riviere on the internet and we had hoped to have lunch there but didn't make it. As it apparently had a very good reputation for food we decided to treat ourselves to a night and a meal there on this trip and were very much looking forward to it.

What an amazing location




It was everything I had hoped for

I was really glad that we had got there early (about 4pm) and that we had time to enjoy staying in such a wonderful place. After being shown to a lovely sunny room overlooking the river we showered and changed and then hired a boat for a half hour row down the river.

It was pleasant to be on the river but hard work




We decided to go back to the terrace and have a drink instead




It was a perfect spot to watch the fisherman




and catch up on my diary writing

while listening to the frogs who would all suddenly start croaking loudly

After changing for dinner it was back to our table on the terrace




While we ate we watched the sun-set




What a chocoholic's dream

It had been an absolutely wonderful meal with lots of little extras such as a superb tomato sorbet. The foie gras and beef melted in the mouth, the selection of cheeses were delicious and the chocolate pudding selection was outstanding with a beautiful home made chocolate cake and the most amazing truffle mousse I have ever tasted. The setting was absolutely perfect too. I was so taken by the Auberge I wished I could stay longer but tomorrow morning we would be back on the bike so we went to bed at a sensible time to the sound of the frogs croaking on the river.