DAY 8: LA ROCHELLE - BOURCEFRANC LES CHAPUS: 74km
SATURDAY 6 JUNE

So far on this trip, and on the previous year's trip, we had been incredibly lucky with the weather and, although we would often comment on how lucky we were, we had got used to waking up every morning to a blue sky and had begun to take it for granted. I therefore couldn't quite believe what I saw when I opened the curtains after being woken by our 7am alarm.

Merde!

We knew that one day this would happen - and today was the day. With all the planning that goes into a trip like this the one thing you can't plan is the weather. We had no choice but to get up and get going, although we didn't hurry as much as we would have had it been sunny in an attempt to put off the moment as long as we could. We went up to get some breakfast and ate it while looking out at the torrential rain. We seemed to do everything in slow motion in the hope the rain would stop - or even ease. After breakfast we collected the bike and took it back to the hotel so we could load it up ready for our departure. After one more lingering coffee we decided we just had to get going and could not put it off any longer.

Our route out of La Rochelle followed the harbour




Soon we were on the coast path

Shame about the weather - this would be beautiful on a nice day

We followed the coast for most of the morning and although the rain had stopped by this point it was still very grey. We cycled through Aytre Plage which was a depressing collection of deserted static caravan parks next to a windswept beach.

We had a bar stop and bought a picnic for lunch in Angoulins




Then back onto the coast path - part of which was cobbled




Suddenly we heard the sound of metal hitting concrete

We stopped as soon as we could and lept off the bike I thought we had a puncture - but it was worse. As we looked down we could see that the trailer and the bike had parted company. This was not good news. The screw that was holding the metal rod which connected the trailer to the bike had obviously come out on the cobbles and I walked back looking for it. I couldn't find it and concluded that it could've come out anywhere and so we needed to think how we were going to repair it. We were conscious that it was not only approaching Saturday lunchtime but we were nowhere near a large town and even if we were everything in the afternoon would be shut in fact nothing would be open now until Tuesday! It was at this point you realise how vulnerable you are to any misfortune but it is part of the adventure to overcome whatever is thrown at you.

We talked the problem through logically (and amazingly calmly) and decided our only hope was to try and repair it the best we could and hope that we could get it fixed, if and when, we found somewhere later on in the trip. We had brought a selection of old toe straps and zip ties with us and Rob set to work. At least it wasn't raining at this point and considering the day we were having our sprits remained high.

After the repair work we set off gingerly, not knowing how long it would last

On entering the deserted town of Chatillion Plage the changes of finding an ironmongers looked slim

STOP! Could this be the solution?

I could not believe our luck when suddenly I noticed a building site. Not only were the workmen still there which was highly unusual for a Saturday, and even more so as it was lunchtime, but they were demolishing reinforced concrete that just happened to contain thin strips of metal. I went over and explained that our trailer was broken and asked if they had any spare metal we could fix it with. Within minutes a piece of metal was hammered into place and it has remained there ever since. We couldn't thank them enough and couldn't believe our luck.

I'm sure it is lovely here on a nice day

We passed some warm, cosy looking restaurants and regretted having already bought a picnic as we looked for somewhere sheltered to eat it.

The sun was trying its hardest to come out while we ate




As we left the coast we got caught in a sharp shower




We followed the lanes in-land and the sun finally came out




It was a relief to sit in the sun after the morning's rain

However, it was still very windy as it was so flat, but the views were good

In desperation we stopped to buy a gel seat cover to help my on-going saddlesoreness

Rochefort looked stunning

It was 6pm by the time we reached Rochefort and we were very tempted to stop and camp at the municipal site there as the town looked wonderful with lots of beautiful squares surrounded by grand buildings. However, we decided we should press on as we didn't want to get behind. We had already decided earlier in the day to spend the night at Bourcefranc les Chapus on the mainland rather than go over the bridge to the Ille d'Oleron. The original plan was for a rest day on the island but as the forecast wasn't good we didn't see the point in having a rest day in the rain. We reasoned that it made more sense to carry on south and take an extra rest day at Andernos when, hopefully, the weather would be better. We therefore made enquiries of the transporter bridge and were told that it would be running and so headed out of town.

When we got there it was closed - due to the wind




Our only option was to go over the road bridge

We were both nervous as we approached the busy bridge as there was only a narrow designated cycle lane. We put on our waterproofs for warmth and set off. I hadn't appreciated how steep the bridge would be and it was really hard work.

It was so windy I could hardly stand up when we stopped to take a photo

The countryside the other side of the bridge was beautiful

Unfortunately it was getting quite late by this time as going over the bridge had been a bit of a diversion and so we didn't have time to fully appreciate the scenery and decided that we would come back to this area on another occasion.

It was shame we had run out of time to discover Brouage's history

It was 7.30pm when we left Brouage and as we cycled towards Bourcefranc les Chapus we decided that we would stay in a hotel for the night rather than camp. We were a bit concerned about the location of the campsite as, from looking at the map, it didn't seem to be near the town and we were worried that as it was getting late we may not be able to find a restaurant open once we had pitched the tent. I think also, if we were honest, we were tired, we had got wet a few times during the afternoon and we just couldn't face the idea of camping. I therefore referred to my list of cheap hotels that I had compiled during the planning stage and booked us a room for the night.

It was nice to cycle on knowing we were going to a hotel and not a campsite. We were still under pressure though as I asked if we could book a table at their restaurant and was told the restaurant would be closing at 8.30pm. The hotel was harder to find than we thought it would be and we were racing against an ever darkening sky. Just as we were approaching the hotel the link chain came off as we went over a bump and then it started to rain. On arrival we received a very warm welcome and were shown a couple of rooms to choose from and told that they would keep the kitchen open for us to give us chance to have a shower.

The hotel was in the middle of being renovated - we chose the room that was finished (and it had a harbour view)

The restaurant was right on the harbour with stunning views

Although the meal we ate wasn't that good it was so nice to be sitting in a restaurant looking at an amazing view after a day of showers and the mechanical problem, knowing that we had made it this far, and better still there was a bed upstairs waiting. It was a shame that we hadn't made it to the Ille d'Oleron but there was no point if the weather was going to be bad the next day. There was always another year.

As if to justify our decision the heavens opened and a storm blew up - I was so glad we weren't camping