DAY 13: ANDERNOS-LES-BAINS - CASTELJALOUX: 124km
THURSDAY 11 JUNE

We woke up to our 6am alarm and to the sound of rain hitting the tent. Not a good combination! We knew we couldn't hang around in the hope that it would stop as we had a long day ahead of us - we would just have to be brave. I left the tent saying I was going for my shower and by the time I was half way to the shower block I was already soaked and decided that I wouldn't bother (to be honest I couldn't face) taking off my wet clothes in a cool shower block, to get wet in the shower only to put them back on and get even wetter on the bike.

Everything to pack was put in the shelter of the shower block




It was only drizzling by the time we set off

We followed a cycle track out of Andernos as the roads were busy and the traffic there didn't seem very tolerent of cyclists.

Our breakfast was stop in Audenge




We then joined a straight, direct cycle track to St. Symphorien




At least the rain had stopped

It wasn't the most scenic part of the trip and we cycled hard as we knew that St. Symphorien was the half way point of our day and, more importantly, we knew that it was the only place on our route where there would be any chance of getting lunch so we had to get there before everything shut.

We arrived in St. Symphorien and found the main square




which luckily had a bar

We had a basic, but nice, three course set menu (a main course of a good cut of beef with instant smash). While we waited we chatted to another cycle tourist who was passing through. It was a very friendly bar in an extremely pleasant spot. We enjoyed sitting and relaxing overlooking the square. Just what we needed after a hard morning's ride. The sun had also come out and it had turned into a hot day.

Drinking at lunchtime is never a good idea - especially after 67km

When we got back on the bike after lunch, despite my little snooze, I felt really, really tired. I didn't have any energy and could easily have fallen asleep on the back of the bike, in fact if I hadn't thought I would lose my balance and we would fall off I would have been tempted to try it I was so tired.

I had to stop and eat an energy bar to wake myself up




The route took us on really nice lanes




and through some beautiful villages

We came across a diversion but decided that we would risk being able to push the bike around whatever road works were causing it rather than go on a 10km detour. We were glad we did as it turned out it was just a bit of road maintenance with traffic lights on the outskirts of Capiteux.

We had a bar stop in Capiteux




I was feeling good despite the distance covered by this point




We passed lots of felled trees awaiting collection and could smell the pine

During the afternoon I had thought frequently about the fact that we had a wet sandy tent with us and how, although the campsite was right in the middle of the town, I just couldn't bear the thought of camping that evening. I really just could not be bothered with all the scrabbling around on the floor looking for things and walking over to the shower block. However, it was still very warm and there was no sign of rain whatsoever so I didn't feel I could justify suggesting a hotel and if I want to continue cycle touring I must learn to like camping - it's all part of the deal. I like the idea of camping when planning a trip and visualise a lovely sunny evening sitting outside the tent but when it comes to the reality I like my creature comforts too much.

Our penultimate department

As we approached Casteljaloux Rob suddenly broke the silence by announcing "I'm not f'ing camping tonight". I made some vague attempt to try and persuade him that we should for financial reasons but don't think I hid my relief well enough. As we were so near Casteljaloux we didn't even stop to phone the hotel I had on my list but went straight there. It was gone 7pm when we arrived and luckily they had one double room left at rather more than we would wish to pay as it was a superior room but it was worth every euro cent.

I didn't know it was possible to feel so emotional about a bathroom

We enjoyed the luxury of getting ready to go out to eat with the use of our own bathroom and a bedroom where we had space to empty out our panniers while looking for things rather than being in a cramped tent. It was still a lovely warm evening when we left the hotel to have a look around Casteljaloux.

Casteljaloux was a pretty little town




We found a nice Italian restaurant where we worked through the menu

It was hard to believe that it was our last night - this time tomorrow we would be in Lacour